Uteguiden’s Avalanche School – The Human Factor

Uteguiden’s Avalanche School – The Human Factor

In avalanche terrain, theory alone is not enough – we must also understand how emotions, habits, and group dynamics influence our decisions.

Why do things go wrong – even when we “know it all”?

Most serious avalanche accidents happen on days with obvious warning signs: danger level 3 – considerable, lots of new snow, strong wind. Often, those caught in avalanches have both read the forecast and understood the risks. Yet the accidents happen.

Why? Because humans fool themselves.

In avalanche terrain, knowledge isn’t enough – we must understand how feelings, routines, and social pressure influence our choices.

This is, in my opinion, the most interesting chapter in avalanche safety, and it’s one of the areas I spend a lot of time working on.

When knowledge isn’t enough

Avalanche danger can often be assessed without advanced snow profiles. Just as we recognize that the road is slippery when cars are in the ditch, we know that strong wind and new snow create slab avalanche risk.

The problem is not a lack of information – it’s how humans make decisions.

In steep terrain, we easily fall back on instincts and emotions – strategies that work fine in everyday life but become dangerous in avalanche terrain.

Research by Ian McCammon (ISSW, 2002) shows clearly that many accidents are caused by mental shortcuts – so-called heuristic traps. His study of 622 accidents and 1,180 involved individuals identified six recurring human errors.

These are known as FACETS, and they are important for anyone traveling in the winter mountains.

FACETS – The Six Human Errors

1. Familiarity – The power of habit

We take the greatest risks in places we know well. Previous positive experiences make us push the limits – even when the conditions are completely different from the last time we were there.

2. Acceptance – The desire to fit in

Groups with both men and women tend to take more risks than all-male groups. The need for acceptance and wanting to make an impression can lead us to choices we wouldn’t normally make.

3. Consistency – “We must reach the goal”

Without a clear Plan B, we become locked into achieving the objective and continue even when conditions clearly say otherwise. This is especially common in groups of four or more.

4. Experts – The wrong leader

The best skier or the person who knows the area best is often seen as the leader – even if they lack avalanche knowledge. Groups without a natural leader often make better decisions because more people contribute.

5. Social facilitation – When someone is watching

Fear of “missing out” on fresh powder leads to rushed decisions, especially when several groups are competing for the best lines.

6. Social facilitation – Når noen ser på

Experienced groups take bigger risks when others are observing them. The urge to show that you “know what you’re doing” can push you farther than you should go.

How do we avoid these traps?

The most important step is to acknowledge that everyone – even experts – is affected by human factors. By recognizing the traps, we can make better decisions. Start by reviewing the FACETS list regularly and remind yourself of it during your trip.

At the same time, there are several concrete measures that should always be in place:

Basic safety routines

  • Always carry complete avalanche equipment (transceiver, shovel, probe).
  • Practice using your equipment regularly.
  • Build avalanche knowledge – take an avalanche course.
  • Read the avalanche forecast before every trip (e.g., varsom.no).
  • Never go alone – always have a partner to discuss decisions with.

Good habits

  • Touring with people you can speak honestly with – and disagree with – leads to better decisions.
  • Take an avalanche course together with the people you normally tour with. It “calibrates” your decision-making.
  • Be aware of when you enter avalanche terrain. If you’re unsure – turn back.

Summary

Avalanche accidents rarely happen because of a lack of information, but because of how humans make decisions. Wind, new snow, and danger levels can be learned from a forecast – but the human factors must be actively managed.

By recognizing heuristic traps, following basic safety routines, and making choices based on conditions rather than emotions, you significantly reduce your risk.

Want to learn more and feel safer in the winter mountains?
We highly recommend taking an avalanche course or hiring a qualified guide when traveling in avalanche terrain. It leads to safer tours – and better experiences.

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Published
December 5, 2025
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Last edited
December 5, 2025